Glycolic Acid

Properties

Glycolic acid is an AHA obtained from sugar cane. Its small molecular size confers it with excellent intercellular penetrative properties and so is considered a true keratolytic. Its action mechanism does not consist of acting on the more external corneocytic layers, but rather of inhibiting their cohesion in the deeper layers.
It produces increased skin moisturisation, greater flexibility and greater turgescence.


Action mechanism

In contrast to retinoic acid, which is hydrophobic and requires a transporter protein, glycolic acid is hydrophilic and so diffuses freely in the intercellular aqueouse phase.
According to VAN SCOTCH, at this level it inhibits the synthesis of mucopolysaccharides, glycoproteins and sluphurised and phosphatised steroids on the cell surface, substances responsible for inter-corneocytic bonding.
In addition, it promotes the synthesis of glycosamine, normalising cellular metabolism.
It has an analogous action to ascorbic acid (from which it is derived) in so far as inhibiting inflammatory reaction and its anti-radical action.


Usefull in mesotherapy

It was put forward by PERSONELI (1996) for treating acne processes, strech marks, fine wrinkles, hypertrophic scars and actinal keratosis.

- 5 cc of 0.01 % glycolic acid
- once a week x 2 months (total 8 sessions)
- sessions spread out as condition improves, clinical setting establishes maintenance protocol

Ideal complement is exfoliation with 70 % glycolic acid gel.